Removing the rear wheel

A SPEEDHUB rear wheel always comes out in the same order:

1. disconnect the shift actuation,
2. release the axle — and the long torque arm, if there is one,
3. take the wheel out.

Refitting goes in reverse: Fitting the rear wheel. For A12 axles, see Removing and fitting an A12 wheel.

1. Disconnecting the shift actuation

External actuation. Shift to gear 14 with the twist shifter — so the cable box goes back in the same position later. Unscrew the knurled screw D and pull off the cable box E.

Internal actuation. Shift to a middle gear, where the bayonets are easy to reach. Turn the bayonet tip and bayonet connector 90° against each other and pull them apart. Hold beside the springs, not on them, or they open less easily.

E-14. Switch the e-bike system off, clean around the connector, and holding plug and socket directly, pull them straight apart — do not pull on the cable, and do not twist or bend the connector. Protect the open connector from dirt.

2. Releasing the axle

CC with the long torque arm. Open quick release F: push locking pin G, which sticks out on the inside of the frame, outwards.

Then open the axle quick release and swing the arm out of its holder.

TS with the long torque arm. Unscrew the frame clamp bolt (4 mm Allen), then loosen both axle nuts (15 mm spanner).

OEM, OEM2 and PM axle plates. There is no separate support to release: just open the axle quick release (CC) or loosen the axle nuts (TS).

3. Taking the wheel out

Take the wheel out of the dropouts and lift the chain off the sprocket.

• OEM: the axle stub and support block slide out of the dropout’s long slot together.
• OEM2 and PM: the axle stub slides out of the dropout, and the plate’s fork unhooks from the SPEEDBONE, MonkeyBone, PM Bone or support bolt pin.

With a chain tensioner

A chain tensioner stops the wheel sliding out: swing it back far enough for the sprocket to pass. With a DH tensioner, loosen its fixing bolt first.