Twist shifter up to 2010

A new twist shifter has been made since 2011 (The twist shifter). This page covers the triangular-housing shifter made until the end of 2010.

Note

No grip rubber is made any more for the old (8200) shifter. When the rubber is worn, it is replaced with the new 8206 shifter — whose rubber can then be changed on its own.

Fitting

The shifter’s parts: clamp screws, 1 and 14 cable stops, clamp ring, housing and grip rubber. Turning towards 14 (forwards) pulls the rear, 14 cable; towards 1 (backwards) the front, 1 cable.

1. The stops are fitted so the cables leave parallel: on the 1 stop the cable hole is in the middle, on the 14 stop at the edge.
2. Slide the shifter onto the bar end (22.0–22.3 mm) and turn it so the two stops sit evenly above and below the brake lever.
3. Remove the clamp screws (M5×8, 2.5 mm Allen), grease them lightly and fix the shifter (1 Nm) — only until the housing just can no longer be turned by hand.

Threading the cables

1. Unscrew the front, 1 cable stop. Turn the rubber until the 14 track’s nipple seat is visible (around gear 2). Both cables can be threaded through the same opening.
2. Push the 14 cable from below upwards into the 14 track until it comes out of the 14 stop’s hole; pull it fully in and seat the nipple.
3. Turn the rubber until the 1 track’s seat is visible (at gear 13), push the 1 cable in from above and pull it in the same way.
4. Thread the 1 cable into the 1 stop and screw the stop back on (M4×16, TX20, 3 Nm).
5. As a check, pull the cables alternately: the shifter should turn easily and go slightly past both end positions.
6. The liner’s flared end goes at the shifter, between end cap and housing — so it cannot creep. Fit the cables dry, without grease or oil.

Changing the grip rubber

To change the rubber (Art. no. 8201), the cables have to come out of the shifter; first cut off their crimped ends, or the liners get damaged.

1. Unscrew the 1 stop, turn the rubber to the 14 nipple seat and pull the 14 cable out nipple first; then the 1 cable the same way.
2. Lever out the circlip with a flat screwdriver, pull off the rubber and clean the housing.
3. Lightly grease the inside of the new rubber and the sealing ring, slide it on, refit the circlip and check that it turns easily.
4. Thread the new cables as above.

If you only want to change the rubber

Shift to gear 14, disconnect the bayonets or take off the cable box, and screw both adjusters fully in. Remove the stops’ two screws and the circlip, and pull the rubber out together with the cables. Hook the cables into the new rubber, lightly greased inside, wind them about ¾ of a turn (270°), slide it back in from the side, and refit the stops and circlip. Reconnect the actuation in gear 14 and set the tension.