Converting the shift actuation

External actuation’s advantage over internal is that the cables run uninterrupted from shifter to cable box — no cable stop needed — and it uses standard 1.1 mm stainless cable, available anywhere in the world. A conversion usually comes up when the hub moves to another frame. It is not routine work: we suggest leaving it to us — book an appointment.

Is it worth it?

On a bike with a long torque arm, mudguards, a rack and a kickstand, there is often no good place for the external cable box. With an OEM or OEM2 axle plate and chainstay routing it is usually no problem.

Removing the axle ring

You need: the external actuation (Art. no. 8213), new paper gaskets and five new axle plate screws (Art. no. 8714), a TX20 key, a 10 mm spanner to hold the axle plate, an 8 mm socket, a 2 mm Allen key, pipe pliers and a little grease.

• One-piece axle ring (up to serial number 25,300, six axle plate screws): remove all six screws (M4×25, TX20) and the axle plate. Lay the wheel axle-ring-side up and, holding the cable guides, rock the ring off; if it sticks, use pipe pliers over a strip of cardboard.
• Quick-change axle ring (five axle plate screws): remove the five screws and the axle plate, pull out the cable guides with the plastic cylinders and the drum, unscrew the axle ring screw (M4×20, TX20) and rock the ring off.

Caution

Once the axle ring is off, do not tilt the wheel towards the open side: oil can run out, and the two freewheel springs can fall out of their holes.

Shift the shaft to gear 14: carefully turn it anticlockwise to the stop with an 8 mm spanner, holding the aluminium nut (sprocket side) with a 17 mm spanner.

Fitting the external actuation

1. Check that both freewheel springs are in their holes.
2. Fit new paper gaskets: the small one in the recess on the back of the axle ring, the large one on the protruding dowel pins with every hole lined up.
3. Fit the grub screw in the right position (see below).
4. Put the shift housing on the gearbox — the two dowel pins press on the springs.
5. Push the cable drum onto the shift housing’s hex and turn it so its two threaded holes sit on the imaginary centre line — that lines up the internal gears. Hold it there.
6. Fit the gear with its narrow collar inwards, towards the hub, onto the gearbox shift shaft’s hex. It meshes easily with the shift housing’s gears in only one hex position — that is the right one. If the drum ends up clearly askew, take it off, realign the drum and try the next position.
7. Put a little grease between gear and shift housing, fit the axle plate in the position you want and tighten the five screws (M4×25, TX20, 3 Nm).

Caution

If the gear’s collar faces outwards, the shift housing will turn stiffly once the axle plate is on.

For connecting the cables, see Cables with external actuation; for the axle plate position, Axle plate position.

The grub screw

From serial number 47,000, every hub with external actuation has an M4×8 grub screw in the axle’s 6th threaded hole — for better oil sealing. The shift housing may therefore go on in one position only.

Hub serial number	Grub screw	Shift housing
47,000 – 48,500	screwed in flush	without blind hole
from 48,501	protrudes 2 mm	with blind hole — the blind hole goes over the screw

With a shift housing without a blind hole, the grub screw must be screwed in flush.

Check: the axle plate screw over the grub screw’s hole should turn in easily for about 4 turns. If it will not, or only stiffly, the grub screw is under it — take the shift housing off and refit it turned 180°; the grub screw stays where it is.

Complete lock-up

In the wrong position, the axle plate screw drives the grub screw into the gearbox and the hub locks completely. The grub screw only needs removing when converting back to internal actuation and for work with the shaft seal tool — do not take the external actuation off without reason.

Removing and refitting the external actuation

If the actuation has to come off (for a shaft seal change or a switch to the E-14, say):

1. Shift to gear 14, take off the cable box and remove the wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Lay it actuation-side up.
2. Photograph the axle plate position and unscrew the five axle plate screws (TX20) — throw them away, they must not be reused.
3. Pull off the gear (with tweezers, for example), then lift off the actuation. Remove the paper gaskets — they cannot be reused either.
4. Refitting needs new paper gaskets and five new axle plate screws (Art. no. 8714); the rules above for the grub screw and the gear apply. If it was not in gear 14 before removal, shift it there with an 8 mm spanner.